Man up

One day I catch a ferry to Manly, so called by one of the First Fleet officers upon seeing the muscular physique of the native men. It's a lovely ride, one of the longest out of Circular Quay and yet another splendid vantage point from which to admire the Sydney Opera House. It's also brilliant for people watching and listening. Two guys next to me are discussing Welsh politics, would you believe.

Strolling along Manly beach I have to admire the way the kids stash their surf boards while they're hanging out at the Surf Life Saving Club. It reminds me of skis outside a mountain restaurant.

And I'm just busying myself admiring the little sculpted scenes along the walk to Shelly beach, where I've decided to have my swim today, when I spot the weirdest creature so far scuttling next to me on the path – an Australian Water Dragon. I'm a bit disappointed to learn later that they were most likely introduced to Australia in the Eighties by a reptile enthusiast. To give you some idea of the size, half of its tail is about the size of my foot. This is no mini-gecko!

There's a bunch of youngsters already firing up the free barbecue at the back of the beach and some elegant diners next door at the posh restaurant. It's quite a contrast but all fine too.

There are great views from the cliffs behind the beach and I walk round the headland back to the wharf, via some disused military fortifications, using my handy trail map.

Yes, at last somewhere that provides plenty of trails, many boarded, and a map with options. Have I arrived in rambler heaven? Compared to Thailand it is. These Aussies don't have all this scenery just to look at. They want to be part of it. Round here they're out running the trails, rowing on the water, canoeing out to sea as far as the eye can see, sailing, and surfing of course.  

The ferry sails back into Sydney at dusk with all the lights putting on a splendid show.