Off the wall in Edinburgh

Edinburgh isn't particularly known for its street art, but its Leith neighbourhood boasts a clutch of outdoor murals. Strung together they make a most rewarding and thought-provoking walk. Three have been around since the 1980s, but because they're tucked away, around unsalubrious corners, I'd never seen them –despite the Michelin-starred restaurants along The Shore, the world of Irvine Welsh's Trainspotting alive and well, just a stone's throw away. 

On a recent visit, I take my own Leith mural tour, starting in Bonnington (formerly Bonny toun) Road with the Swanfield Mill mural (1986), by David Wilkinson, a tall, majestic work that references the old Swanfield Flour Mill, of which only one building survives. 

Swanfield Mill mural

I almost miss the Eduardo Paolozzi mural (2014) by Russell Ian Dempster, a splendid backdrop for anyone waiting at the bus stop on Henderson Street. Pop artist Paolozzi grew up nearby, in a flat above his Italian parents' ice cream and confectionary shop.

Eduardo Paolozzi mural

Another of the original murals was painted alongside the Leith Social Work Department building, now gone. As part of an environmental project in 1984, residents of Links View House were asked to choose the subject matter and Tim Chalk and the Artists' Collective got to work creating a sea view with gulls and a variety of flags. The goalposts were added later, I reckon. 

Links View mural

On to the Leith Dockers Club in Academy Street, where Tom Ewing was commissioned to paint a tribute to Leith and the club. The mural is entitled Sunshine on Leith and depicts Leith Walk, the old docks and other landmarks of the area, including the former seaman's mission, now the Malmaison hotel. It was unveiled by Trainspotting author, Irvine Welsh, in 2014.

Leith Dockers Club mural detail

Round a few more back alleys, I find the Leith Aquatic Mural (2013) by the Blameless Collective at the end of Halmyre Street. This wonderful seascape features elements based on the memories of residents of the Port of Leith Housing Association's Jameson Place. Central to the mural is the Leith-registered steam trawler SS Explorer, and weaving in and out are visual references to fishwives, the Proclaimers' Sunshine on Leith and, of course, Trainspotting. 

Leith Aquatic mural

Leith Aquatic mural, Trainspotting reference