Cliff notes

The Irish holiday continues with a two-night stay in The Cliff House Hotel in County Waterford, one of the 'finest small luxury five-star hotels in Ireland'. Overlooking the mile-long sands of Ardmore, the entrance at road level is near the top of the hotel – the rest cascades down the cliff with views out to sea from the bar, restaurant and every one of the guest rooms. We're in the Arran House, named after the Arran-jumper art on the wall of the stairwell. Yes, our suite has stairs – a living room downstairs and a loft-style bedroom above with floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening on to a private terrace. Even the glass-sided rainforest shower has an ocean view. Furniture is a stylish mix of 18th-century antique finds, chic contemporary tweeds and all the mod cons you could possibly need – even music piped to the shower.

Our Arran-jumper art

It's in a grand spot and for me there's a fine cliff walk on the doorstep, a five kilometre trail following in the footsteps of the fifth-century Munster saint St Declan, who founded a monastery here. Archaeological remains include a holy well and St Declan's cell, as well as the ruins of a 12th-century cathedral, and an unusual round tower in the middle of a churchyard, possibly 12th-century, with its entrance up on the first floor. St Declan is reputed to have preceded St Patrick in bringing Christianity to Ireland.

St Declan's Way

St Declan's church

The round tower

The food is out of this world. Dutch chef Martijn Kajuiter presides over the one-Michelin-starred The House Restaurant where we're served the tasting menu (the high point of my vegetarian life). Wine is paired with every course and highlights include edible-clay wrapped new potatoes, beetroot macaroons held together with goat's cheese. A rhubarb, honey and ginger dessert arrives in a swirl of mist under a glass dome. I have memories of a dish accompanied by the lightest scrambled-egg foam, and greens tingling with freshness and flavour. Herbs come from the chef's garden, which clings to the cliff at the side of the building. The exquisite fare renders Chris speechless, until I embarrass him by taking photos of the food. And spilling some wine.

Edible-clay new potatoes and beetroot meringues

We have plenty of time to enjoy the infinity pool. On the last morning I'm up with the lark to do some lengths and have the whole place to myself. We find the outdoor hot tub, too, and while exploring I discover a couple of seaweed baths, with hot water pouring over a few kilos of the green slimy stuff. Must remember not to try this one at home.

Poolside contemplation

We drive to the historic walled seaport of Youghal nearby, on the estuary of the River Blackwater. It seems to have been a hugely important port in the past and we do a quick tour of the crumbling Norman fortifications, and the clock towers that served as gaols, where people were thrown out of the windows to slowly throttle. It's warm enough to picnic in the elevated College gardens, with a view of the sea over the Georgian rooftops.

View over Youghal

Everyone seems to have notched up a spell here, from the Vikings, who used Youghal as a base for raids, to Sir Walter Raleigh, who had a residence in the town and even became mayor for two years – indeed, Sir Walter first brought potatoes from Virginia to Ireland and planted them at his home here. The town experienced a later brush with fame Hollywood-style when it was a location for the 1956 film Moby Dick, starring Gregory Peck. One of the seafront pubs was used as Captain Ahab's local. Chris enjoys an excellent pint of stout.

A stout a day...

Back at the hotel we have a last few hours so we skim stones on the mile-long beach and watch paddle boarders shimmying in to shore. Just before leaving, we notice a framed Seamus Heaney poem pinned to a side wall. A closer look reveals a personalised message – it seems he was as delighted with the Cliff House Hotel as we are.

Skimming stones on Ardmore sands

Heaney's thank you note