Go with the flow

The River Findhorn, which flows from the Monadhliath mountains to the Moray Firth, is one of the longest rivers in Scotland and its turbulent waters are a big hit with anglers and canoeists. But I'm here to explore a section roughly half way along, and to learn a little of its eventful history.

It's the perfect season for this woodland walk. Rainy mist hangs in the air, the river is dramatically high, and through the trees we glimpse its dark waters swirling noisily. Underfoot is a thick carpet of rich autumn leaves, with bright evergreens poking through.

Highland autumn colours

High above the Findhorn's curves

At one point the river has carved a dramatic gorge and the path branches off to precipitous lookout points with ancient looking railings to keep you from plunging to your doom. 

Lionine shapes below the gorge

The entrance to the gorge, and the narrowest section of the river, is known as Randolph's Leap, named after the Earl of Moray, Thomas Randolph. Back in the 14th century, a family of disgruntled nobles decided to attack Randolph and gathered a 1,000-strong army, crossing to their opponent's side of the river. Randolph ambushed the army and forced the ringleaders to retreat by jumping back across the river at this narrow section.

Randolph's Leap

Water awaits the next surge in dark pools

There are two memorials, or Flood Stones, to be found along this section, which commemorate the Moray floods of 1829. Following three days of rain in early August the River Findhorn and its tributaries rose to an enormous height, causing devastation throughout the valley. At Randolph's Leap the level rose by 50 feet, and is marked by in two places by Flood Stones. The power of the water must have been phenomenal – huge boulders transported upriver as if made of balsa wood.

Flood Stone marks the highest water in 1829

This section of the river runs through the Logie estate, owned and managed by descendants of Sir Alexander Grant, a canny baker who ended up running McVitie's biscuits –famously inventing the Digestive. Back in the 1980s, the family turned disused farm buildings into a hub of retail and workshop spaces, with a heritage centre for those curious about the history of the area. Logie Steading has become a huge draw, and if you've been tramping the ups and downs of the Findhorn's riverside trail, in true Sir Alex tradition, its cafe does baked goodies to die for.